Fly Tying

Fly Tying Materials Canadian Tire



Fly Tying

So you’ve planned your fishing trips for next season, but it will be months before those lakes are accessible and free of ice. What to do in the long evenings as you look longingly at the fly rods on the wall? Have you ever tried your hand at fly tying?

There is something very special about bringing in a fat trout on one of your own creations. Flies generally work on one of two principles: imitating food sources or triggering their aggressive instincts. Keeping this in mind, don’t be afraid to experiment.

One of my early creations was a tiny mosquito, the body a very small hook with a thin grey body with thin black stripes. I then took some thin plastic, etched some tiny wings and attached them at the head of the fly. It worked great: as soon as it hit the water a nice trout took it. Unfortunately, when the fish struck the wings broke. Now if I could just manage to invent a system of clip on wings.

My late Uncle Howard had a tremendous fly tying set up, including a roll top desk with many small drawers to hold his equipment and was able to leave it set up. One can purchase inexpensive kits to get started. These include a fairly good selection of hooks, feather, tinsels, wool and thread as well as a fly tying vice. Most of these vices are soon discarded in favour of a better one once one gets more experience. The materials may also not be to your liking or the hooks of incorrect size for your desired flies. Still, they are usually fairly inexpensive and may be the way to experiment.

The fly tying vice is your most important tool. When choosing a vice, look for one that is fully adjustable, grips well and attached easily and firmly to your chosen work surface. Hackle pliers are perhaps the next important item: again I recommend getting quality.

Regardless of your decision to start with a kit or purchase individual items and supplies, pick up a book on fly tying to learn the intricacies. (I was delighted to see a good display of supplies at the Canadian Tire Store)
You will also need to decide on a work area that allows easy set up or preferably where you can leave things in place for those odd free moments. Unless you have this space and a good well organized storage system for your supplies you will spend more time setting up and putting supplies away than fly tying.

Remember you will want to have many different sizes and styles of hooks, colours of yarns and threads, and a multitude of types and colours of feathers. This is just for starters. Remember that roll top desk I mentioned earlier that Uncle Howard had? I’d love to have one like that. Once you get into fly tying you might also become so keen that you will have a portable kit to take along on your trips to tie flies right on the spot to match the hatch.

Once you start using flies you will constantly be studying your surroundings very closely, learning more and more about the cycles of nature. However, it is possible for a good fly fisherman to create an imitation hatch.
Another pleasant experience with a custom fly was a black wool caterpillar tied on a long shanked hook. A cast underneath the willow on the bank of Headwaters Lake produced a nice fat rainbow trout. All this talk about tying flies makes me long for more space and time to take it up again.

Fly fishing outfits

Fly Fishing Outfits

Its the time of the year when avid fishermen are reviewing their gear for the upcoming season. Every fly fisherman has at one time or another experience the frustration of being on the water with the wrong type of line on the fly outfit. Either the fish are rising like crazy and the line is a fast sinking line or there is nary a rise and the fish are busy bottom feeding and you are stuck with a dry line on the rod.

If you are alone on a boat you can use two rods with different lines to fish at different levels. However if you are fishing from shore or there are other fishermen in the boat or canoe you are restricted to using one line. One outfit is also much easier to back into those out of the way fishing holes. There are three solutions each with their own advantages and disadvantages.

The multi tip system is perhaps the lightest and cheapest way to go. This system uses a main line with four interchangeable tips about five metres in length. You have the choice of a floating tip, slow sinking, medium sinking and a fast sinking tip. Each tip has a loop on the butt end which attaches to the loop on the end of the main line. Sitting in a canoe it is not all that easy threading this five metre length and the two to three metre leader through the loop on the line to join the two pieces. One other problem is that sometimes the connection does not slip easily through the rod tip. The system is relatively cheap and light, but not exceptionally easy to use.

The next system I looked into seems to be ideal. One reel with four separate spools or cartridges each with a different type of line. This cartridge system is a little heavier that the interchangeable tips system, but is much easier to use. I even have a fly on each cartridge so all I have to do is change cartridge and thread the rod. If you consider this option check out the ease of changing cartridges. Remember that cold fingers are not as nimble so if in doubt perhaps you should consider the last option.

One fly reel for every fly line in your arsenal is a bit bulkier but likely easier to change in the field than the cartridges. Just remember to keep the reel seat in good working condition. Last fall I attempted to change a reel on an older rod and in the struggle so loosen it the seat broke the base of the reel.

Rods and reels are designed for specific weights of lines so be sure to match you outfit. Generally the lighter the weight the less effort required in casting, but the larger the fish you are after the heavier line you want to use. Line weights from 4 to 7 are the normal range for fresh water fishing, but for bass the recommended weights are from 7 to 9. I settled on a 8 weight outfit which is a bit heavy for Panfish and trout, but should be heavy enough for even steelhead fishing. Large flies and plugs require heavier lines.

Longer rod lengths are great on open water but a shorter rod is better for small bodies of water such as creeks and beaver dams. Two piece rods can be difficult to transport in a crowded vehicle, as I quickly found out. Three piece outfits still have good action and are easier to store while travelling. If you plan on back packing however a four piece rod fits into a pack and is less likely to catch on the brush. Keeping all your rods the same weight means all you have to do is change spools and you are ready to go fishing.

Now is the time for fine tuning your equipment for some great fishing in the coming season.

Locating Lakes

Locating Lakes

Its that time of the year when if you are not an ardent ice fisherman or into other winter sports, one dreams of next seasons fishing trips.

Got that out of the way new lake in mind, but are unsure how to get there? The last few weeks I've been ironing out some problems with my computer, but I think I'm up and running now. Here's my solution.

I have located the lake using Google Earth. This shows a maze of back country roads in the general area of Heart Lake, (the first one I'm going to try to locate) I slowly work my way back to the main road makng print outs as I go. On each print out, I mark important intersections with map co-ordinates. It is important to remember that maps of all these areas are never completely up to date and that they do not show the conditions of the roads.

Next summer I will take these maps and co-ordnates and with my GPS will get to about a kilometer and a half from the lake before setting of hiking with the lake programed into the GPS.

The last few years I have located several lakes in this manner. Some with fabulous fishing and others that I am sure would produce well if they were stocked once in a while. Can not think of a better method of mosquito control than having all these small lakes stocked with either rainbow or brook trout.

Happy dreams of tight lines and fish sizzling in a frying pan over a campfire.

Trail Blazing

The late Carl Trautman

Trail Blazing

I received a call from the late Carl Trautman in the mid “80’s” with an offer to cut some trails for the Okanagan Mountain Parks Society. A very fortuitous call as I was between jobs at that time. Needless to say I jumped at the chance to work outdoors and with a good friend. A quick trip to the Employment Office to fill out forms and we were set for an enjoyable Fall season in the hills.

Rising early we would drive past Glenn Fir and then turn off the Chute Lake Road to the parking lot at the southern side of the Okanagan Mountain Park. Each morning the three of us would set out armed with chainsaw, axe, picks and shovels to establish a trail into Baker Lake. This was already roughly flagged and took advantage of several sections of old logging roads.

At the parking lot there was already a footbridge over the creek and an outhouse already established. Work progress very swiftly as we first followed and old road, but soon we angled off through the bench land and through a little denser stand before hitching up to another old road. So it went some easy sections and other sections that required much more cutting and digging. After a week we were far enough from the vehicle that we stashed the gear in the evenings taking only the gas and oil cans to refill before the next morning.

It was good physical work with the added benefit of all that clear fresh air and the pleasure of being in the company of cheeky squirrels and chipmunks. Ruffle grouse would whistle and scurry around before bursting forth in a noisy low weaving flight. The huge blue grouse on the other hand would thunder up into the trees well ahead of us. Deer track were everywhere, but usually we only caught a glimpse or two of them in distance.

One morning we came across a deer carcass, a fresh cougar kill in the middle of that trail. We dragged it off to the side and continued on our way. Each morning for the next four days we dragged the carcass off and each evening the cougar would stubbornly drag it back to that specific spot on the trail. In the end it was the smaller scavengers cleaning and spreading the bones around that settled our little dispute.

Eventually we completed the first part of the project and reached Baker Lake and the little cabin that would be a cozy shelter for overnight hikers. Since the weather was still holding we then back tracked and began a side trail towards Divide Lake. Unfortunately we were not able to complete this trail before the snows flew.
Since that date more trails have been laid out and we had some great hikes here before the Okanagan Mountain fire. The trail had been completed to Divide Lake an here too there was a very pleasant cabin for shelter. One of my projects for the coming year will be to check out these trails and to see the effects the fire has had on them.

In the past I’ve met hikers from as far away as Germany and Australia on these trails. Sharing the hills brings both an awareness of the beauty of our back country and adds to the economic health of our region. This awareness is perhaps one of the best protections our natural habitat has in its favour. Perhaps we should consider a Trail Blazer Club to mark and maintain trails and access into these beautiful spots. Why wait until we loose access as we nearly did at the Skaha Bluffs.

K.V.R. - Naramata to Chute Lake

KVR Naramata to Chute Lake

The Kettle Valley Railway or Trans-Canada Trail from Smethurst Road to the old Chute Lake Station is 28.9 kilometres. Most of this section is multi-use, so please keep trail etiquette in mind. Once you leave Naramata there are no amenities until you reach the lodge at Chute Lake, so take plenty of water and trail snacks. (During the hot months Voulunteers have set up a watering station near the rock ovens)

It’s four kilometres of beautiful lake views to the small tunnel. Just before reaching the tunnel, the Horseshoe Trail heads uphill to the next level of the old railway line coming out at the Rock Oven Park. If my memory is correct, there is an oven a short distance along this trail.

Once through the tunnel, the lake views gradually become less spectacular and more treed. At 8.2 kilometres the old track bed loops around and heads back south. Here there is easy access from the Chute Lake road, which passes only metres from the trail. Once the Glenfir Station was only a few hundred metres further along.

This level, while a bit lacking in the spectacular lake views, passes the Rock Oven Park, which has a good collection of ovens made from rock which were used to cook for the railway work crews. Most are in remarkably good condition. These are situated between where the power lines and natural gas lines (11.7 km) cross and the north branch of Smethurst Road (13.2 km) crosses the track.

Shortly before reaching the lower end of the Adra Tunnel at the 17.6 km mark, there is a road off to the left taking you up to the upper entrance and the South Fork of Smethurst Road which goes over top of the tunnel to a network of roads above.
Continuing north from the tunnel the remains of the Adra Station are found at the 19.3 km mark. Here one can see the foundations of the station and the water tower and the odd domestic flower still can still be seen blooming. There is also another road that heads off up the hill to join the network of roads that connect with the south branch of Smethurst Road.
The next access point at 20.6 km is the north fork of Smethurst Road. Taking this rough downhill road will bring you back to the middle level of the trail and the Rock Oven Park. Heading up the road is quite rough going and could be tricky under either wet or extremely dry conditions. This would take you to Naramata and Elinor Lakes before coming out at Chute Lake.

There is a road that crosses at 27.3 km that leads uphill to a communications tower and downhill a few metres to the Chute Lake Road. The next 2.4 km of line crosses many small trestles until the Elinor Lake Forest Service Road intersects at 29.7 km. At this point you can spot the lake and resort through the trees.
Once over the bridge you are onto the Chute Lake Resort Property and the location of the old Chute Lake Station. This is a great place to stop and refresh and perhaps rent a boat to try your luck at catching some nice rainbow trout for supper. Or, many check out the accommodations for a mid-week or weekend getaway.

Early in the spring you might want to keep you eyes out for fiddlehead ferns, particularly near where the trail crosses creeks. Later in the year there are some good wild raspberry patches, and once the first frost has hit in the fall, wild rose hips are ready to pick. The wild rose hips can be used for either teas or for rose hip jelly; our attempt turned out like wild rose taffy, but I’m sure the jelly would be good too.
　

K.V.R. East from Penticton

Kettle Valley Railway Trail East

The Kettle Valley Railway portion of the Trans-Canada Trail from Main Street in Penticton to where it crosses the Naramata Road makes a nice easy hike or bike ride. The 1.5 kilometre section from Main Street just north of Nelson Avenue to Vancouver hill is paved and easily accessible at many points as streets and avenues intercept the trail. The grade is gentle but steady and relatively open as it passes the schoolyards and Penticton Creek and then climbs along the banks to the benches. There are a few benches where one can sit and enjoy the view of the city and lake. This section is restricted to walking and biking, but I would hope wheelchairs are allowed.

Later in summer there is also a wild walnut tree or two that you might be lucky enough to sample. My experience with wild walnuts has been that they are superb, very meaty and tasty.

Heading north across Vancouver Hill a housing development has taken over a portion of the old railway bed, so you travel to the end of Vancouver Place where you can once more catch the old railway bed. Here the path becomes hard-pack gravel and is still restricted from motorized vehicle use. Again, I’m hoping exceptions will be made for electric and hand powered wheelchairs.
The next couple of kilometres travel near the edge of the bench with lovely lake views, coming at last to the Lakeview Cemetery. Here it becomes a little more rolling for about a kilometre as it has been slightly moved to accommodate some orchards and vineyards. This section takes you past Carder Road and onto a bridge at Randolph Creek Gully.

This bridge is a fitting monument to the donors and volunteers who made it possible. It is this spirit that really adds to the Okanagan experience. Thank you all.From the Randolph Bridge to the Naramata Road is around 1.3 kilometres, crossing Lochore and Danvenport Roads. This section run through the heart of orchards.

Across the Naramata Road lies a section eagerly hiked in late March and April, by people aching for the taste of wild asparagus. Over the next 1.4 kilometres it passes above the Hillside Cellars Winery past Riddle Road and on to Sutherland Road. On my last outing I did not see any signs of the wild cherry tree near Riddle Road. There are lots of marmots to be seen sunning themselves and always evidence of a good deer population.

Between Sutherland and Arawana Roads this 4.6 kilometre section has moved away from the agricultural area and is a little wilder. Still, I’ve found a few wild apricots along here, but never traveled when they were right for picking. Once past the gravel pit the trail becomes more multi-use with vehicular traffic permitted as well. There is lots of room at Arawana Road for vehicle parking.

The next two kilometres to Smethurst Road features a little washout at the creek that might give a little trouble to an inexperience biker, but one can always walk the bike through the gulley. Smethurst Road has ample parking room for one to park to hike either north or south.

This whole section, though not greatly built up, is not too far from may small wineries and some great eateries in Naramata. Many a time we hiked trails in this area and refreshed ourselves at the Camp Kreek Station Pub. Other times we’ve managed to fit in a wine tasting session at one of the local wineries. One in particular, the Elephant Island Winery, is a bit unusual in that it produces fruit wines. Wouldn’t mind a bottle of that wine right now!

Happy hiking.

Worms Wanted

Worms Wanted

I was out with a friend just recently who was heading out ice fishing and didn't have any worms. That reminded me of this article I had published a while ago.

You suddenly have some free time for that fishing trip to that special lake, but no time to dig or buy worms. Not to worry, you can have your own little worm farm close at hand for any time you need them.

Worm boxes can be kept in the yard, shed or even in the house. I had mine in the shed, but being out of sight and out of the way it got neglected and I lost them. My younger brother, on the other hand, had his right in the house and had good luck. They were not even smelly.

I like the idea of a handy one indoors: no going out to the compost at -15 Celsius or in freezing rain; no stumbling about in the dark or trying to dig them without disturbing the garden or the neighbours in the wee hours of the morning.

Basically all you need is a fair-sized Rubbermaid bin with a good lid. Drill a few holes in the top and near the top of the sides to let some air in. Casting, which are good for fertilizer, will collect at the bottom, so you might want to operate two alternating containers or make a removable section for collecting the castings. You might also consider a few drainage holes to prevent pooling of bad water and put your system on a tray.
Line the bin with newspaper or some natural fabric. The worms will eventually eat this, but by then they will be at home in the container. Next fill it about a third full of dry bedding material; this is where the worms will go after feeding. You could use organic potting mix, leaf mulch or even shredded newspaper. Soak it and then let it drain before adding the worms.

Reds, tigers and blues are the most popular composting worms, but some nice healthy ones from the garden should be added, too. It is good to have a variety, and the best ones naturally will thrive better. Add the worms early in the day so they have time to get oriented and to make their initial burrows down into the bedding. Once they have disappeared you can slowly start adding the feed after picking out any worms that were not healthy enough to burrow down.

It is amazing what these little fellows will eat: any vegetable peelings, apple and pear cores, leafy discards, tea bags, coffee grounds, bread crusts, and egg shells. Yes, even left over soup, and water from cooked vegetables. Be careful adding water and liquids though, these should be gently sprinkled on to prevent collapsing the burrows.

Depending on the size of your operation you could even compost most paper and cardboard containers, just avoid the ones that have be plasticized. I understand they will even tackle phone books, but don’t expect your little workers to do miracle work.

I expect you would have to also have a larger bin outside if you want to compost yard waste such as lawn clippings, leaves and discarded flowers and vegetables. It is said that you can also use pet waste as long as it has been a month since the pet has been de-wormed. You wouldn’t want to de-worm your worm box!
Although Citrus peels take longer to compost, they are ok, but you would want to avoid woody material and large pits like peaches. Oh, yes! You know how hard those hot peppers were on your hands and lips? I’d give them a pass too.

The main thing is to keep your container moist, but not sodden. This will keep the worms happy and stop the ants from moving in, as ants only love the dry spots.
Hmm, now once I get the house in shape, I just wonder if Tricia will allow me to….

Note: Tricia has since moved into care which is why I've not been out all that much this year. Next year will see many more new places explored and perhaps some articles on survival if the interest is there.